Free Shipping on orders over €75 (Germany) | €125 (International)

0

Your Cart is Empty

Yarn
  • Sock Yarns

  • All Yarns

  • Notions & Gifts
  • Katie Green's New "Crafty Sheep" Tea Towel

  • Needle Stoppers & Stitch Markers

  • All Notions & Gifts

  • Books & Magazines
  • Subscribe to Making Stories Magazine

  • Preorder Issue 11

  • All Books & Magazines

  • Patterns
  • Issue 10 Patterns – Now Available as Individual PDFs!

  • All Patterns

  • About Us
  • We're here to help you stitch sustainability into every aspect of your making.

    With our carefully curated selection of non-superwash, plastic-free yarns and notions, we have everything you need to get started on your next project - and the one after that.

    Here's to a wardrobe of knits we love and want to wear for years to come!

    Read more about us here.

  • Our Sustainability Pledge

  • Our Blog

  • Our Podcast

  • The Making Stories Collective

  • Are There Sustainable Superwash Options?

    May 27, 2020 5 min read 2 Comments

    Last week, we took a look at superwash yarns and explored why they're not sustainable. TL;DR of that article was that the most common superwash process - the Chlorine-Hercosett process - uses highly toxic chemicals, additional resources compared to non-superwash production processes, and results in a yarn that is not biodegradable and sheds microplastic particles when washed.

    Over the course of the last years, quite a few alternative production processes for machine-washable yarns have cropped up, so today we'll take a look at those to see if they are more sustainable!

    EXP Process

    EXP stands for 'EX-Pollution' and is a process developed by the Schoeller Spinning Group. Instead of chlorine, it uses natural salts as an oxidizing agent, and then adds small polymer patches on the surface of the yarn to make it machine-washable. According to their website, the polymer they're using is 'ecological' - I'm waiting to hear back from them with more information what exactly that means. One gigantic advantage of the EXP process is that it - contrary to the standard superwash process - doesn't release any AOX pollutants into the waste water, making it a lot less toxic!

    The EXP process has both the bluesign‚ìá and the GOTS (Global Organic Textile) certificates. This is an indication that it's indeed more sustainable than the Chlorine-Hercosett superwash process as both certificates take a close look at the toxicity, working conditions, wages and environmental impact of production processes.

    I wasn't able to find detailed information on a few of the certificates' hazier criteria (What exactly are the thresholds for GOTS','All chemical inputs (e.g. dyes, auxiliaries and process chemicals) must be evaluated and meeting basic requirements on toxicity and biodegradability / eliminability'?), but even so, the fact that the EXP process has gotten them speaks for a higher degree of sustainability. 

    Naturetexx‚ìá Plasma Process

    Südwollegroup has developed an alternative process for making Merino wool machine-washable using only air and electricity instead of chemicals. The entire process sounds pretty rad, if you ask me:

    'A plasma field is generated by discharging a voltage between two electrodes in a special machine. Carefully prepared wool passes through the plasma field where electrons and ions in the plasma interact with the wool fibre. They alter the friction profile of the fibre surface, removing the normal felting effect of untreated wool.

    Apparently, the electrons and ions do this by oxidizing the surface of the fibre and creating nano-scale holes. Both help to increase the surface friction of the fibre, which essentially means that the individual fibres stop moving against each other and therefore can't felt anymore, making the yarn machine-washable.

    The Naturetexx‚ìá Plasma process has also been bluesign‚ìá certified, and any products that have undergone it can be certified with the GOTS certification - both indications that it is, like EXP, more sustainable than the standard superwash process.

    Ozone

    The (really awesome) sustainable clothing company Patagonia has developed, together with one of their suppliers, another innovative process using only ozoneinstead of a chlorine-resin combination to remove the scales of the wool fibres they're using. Oxygen and water seem to be the only by-products of this process (yay!!), which, until now, doesn't seem to be available for other manufacturers. 

    Enzyme Coating

    On my quest to find sustainable superwash alternatives, I also stumbled across mentions of enzyme coatings - organic enzymes being applied to the surface of the wool, reducing the friction between the fibre scales and therefore making the yarn machine-washable. Swans Island offers yarn that's been treated with this process, but I'm still waiting to hear back with more details about the process itself to make an assessment regarding its sustainability.

    There are quite a few more processes in development or research that would lead to machine-washable wool with fewer ecologically devastating consequences. None of these, however, seem to be commercially viable and / or available at this point in time. (If I'm wrong on this and you know of one, please do let me know!) 

    So - what's the conclusion here?

    I'm not going to lie, I'm still not a massive fan of any of these alternatives. Additional process steps - beyond the usual spinning and dyeing of yarn - require additional natural resources, and hold the potential for less-than-great working conditions and environmental pollution.

    In addition, most yarn companies don't disclose which one of these processes the yarn they're using has been treated with, which makes it hard to make an informed purchasing choice if you prefer one of the more sustainable superwash-like options over the other.

    What you can do is to check whether the yarn that's labeled as ‚'machine-washable' also has the bluesign‚ìá and / or GOTS certificate.Those certifications make sure that it hasn't gone through the Chlorine-Hercosett superwash process and is most likely been treated with the EXP or plasma process, making it more sustainable than a traditional superwash yarn.

    I do understand, though, that sometimes, a machine-washable yarn is the best way to go - say, if your best friend expects a baby and you'd love to make a cute little sweater for them, but you also don't want to add to the stress level of new parents by making them hand wash it.

    For these occasions, I've put together a list of superwash-like sustainable yarns down below. I've indicated whether they've been certified through bluesign‚ìá or GOTS and where they come from so that you can consider both factors for your purchases.

    This list is by no means exhaustive, so if you know of any other eco-friendly superwash options, do let me know and I'll add them!


    Overview of superwash-like sustainable yarns

    O-Wool O-Wash Fingering - GOTS, USA

    O-Wool O-Wash Sport - GOTS, USA

    O-Wool O-Wash Worsted - GOTS, USA

    O-Wool O-Wash Chunky - GOTS, USA

    Rosy Green Wool Cheeky Merino Joy - GOTS, Germany

    Rosy Green Wool Big Merino Hug - GOTS, Germany

    Swans Island Washable Wool Sport - EcoWash, USA

    Swans Island Washable Wool DK - EcoWash, USA

    Tanis Fiber Arts PureWash Fingering - GOTS, Canada

    Tanis Fiber Arts PureWash DK - GOTS, Canada

    Tanis Fiber Arts PureWash Worsted - GOTS, Canada

    Tanis Fiber Arts PureWash Chunky - GOTS, Canada


    Further resources

    If you want to dive deeper into the different types of superwash processes, this paper offers a comprehensive overview and a range of sources to investigate further. And then there's this slideshow which blew my mind with its overviews of the different finishing treatments - from superwash to non-flammable - for wool!

    Hat tips also go to Susanna Winter for her blog series on superwash yarns, Anna from Dunkelgrün who's talked about the science behind superwash on her podcast, and Mason Dixon Knitting's Jillian Moreno for shedding light on the fabric properties of superwash.


    2 Responses

    Naberl
    Naberl

    October 18, 2023

    In response to Brennas post from March 2021:
    Thanks for the link. I read the study that is linked there by woolmark. For me its absurd and surreal: The study was made by an organization which works in favor of pastoral and agricultural companies. The claim that Superwash Wool biodegrades faster than non-treated wool, which for me is no surprise as superwash-chlorine weakens the fibres (they admit this in the study). And they are so bold to write that they did not find any microplastic in the residues! Hmmm… strange? no: “Fabrics had been washed repeatedly before testing, to simulate a partial garment lifetime” – so it seems obvious that it already has been washed out at least partially. Now you could say, yes but they really found NO microplastic. To tell the truth, I do not believe them. Please read the “study” (its very short and not really a study) and tell me if you agree with me or not. Thank you for good work. If anyone is also interested to investigate further about SUPERWASH ( there are even methods of superwash that are GOTS-certified, which I really find a shame because of the resin (it IS plastic!!)).

    Brenna
    Brenna

    March 19, 2021

    Thanks for this post, I’ve also been on a quest to understand alternatives to the horrible superwash treatment. I had thought however that the Superwash Hercosett treatment didn’t contribute to microplastics – as I’d read via the WoolMark Company website about the fibres still being 100% biodegradable. See https://www.woolmark.com/industry/sustainability/wool-and-microplastics/
    What do you think? Have you found evidence otherwise? I’d really like to see that if you have because that would contradict what Wool mark are reporting and i’d really love to get to the bottom of this important matter. I agree with you, machine washing wool is not necessary if we just remember how to wash wool properly and the more natural state it is in, the less it needs washing anyway. Love to hear your thoughts. Thanks again, Brenna

    Leave a comment

    Comments will be approved before showing up.


    Also in Blog

    FOs #... ? / 2023: My Crystal Socks and Rose des Sables Headband from Issue 10!
    FOs #... ? / 2023: My Crystal Socks and Rose des Sables Headband from Issue 10!

    February 14, 2024 4 min read

    Hi lovelies! I kind of completely dropped the ball on putting FO posts out there, but as you all very kindly let me know through our "what do you want to read on the blog" survey, you actually really like them, so we have some catching up to do!

    We're starting with two FOs that have actually quite recently only been finished – if by recently we mean the end of 2023. They're both from Issue 10, and were both a delight to knit!

    Read More
    Issue 11 - Seashore | Official Pattern Preview
    Issue 11 - Seashore | Official Pattern Preview

    February 06, 2024 13 min read

    Hi lovelies! I am so delighted to welcome our second double-digit magazine issue into the Making Stories family: Issue 11, Seashore! Our Spring 2024 issue features 12 wonderful, layerable, delightful-to-knit patterns that are fabulous on beach days, a stroll through the park, or a day out with the kids.

    We also welcome Liza Laird with a beautiful poem about our relationship to the ocean to our pages.

    You can preorder Issue 11 now through us or one of our fabulous stockists – or you subscribe to the magazine which gives you 15% off Issues 11 and 12 and early access to our magazine yarns!

    Read More
    My Favorite 3 Patterns for Schoppelwolle's Zauberwolle
    My Favorite 3 Patterns for Schoppelwolle's Zauberwolle

    February 06, 2024 3 min read

    Hi lovelies! I adore a good color-changing yarn, so imagine my excitement when I found a non-superwash, 100% wool version (not so easy to come by)! Schoppelwolle's Zauberwolle comes in at 250 m / 273 yds per 100 g and knits up beautifully to a fingering-weight, sport-weight and DK gauge.

    It's fabulous on its own, and great combined with neutral solids! My top picks for yarns to go with Zauberwolle are BC Garn Semilla Melange, De Rerum Natura Ulysse and Holst Garn Supersoft. All three have a broad color range, so finding a matching or contrasting solid to your chosen color-changing yarn should be a breeze!

    Read More